I rarely need an excuse for a Cornish getaway; however, when my friend and her husband returned from India for a brief stay in Newlyn, I booked three nights at Penzance YHA.
Ever since I first visited Penzance I have this urge to keep returning, which I do fairly often. I've spent Christmas there for the past three years and have already bought my rail ticket and booked four nights at the YHA to make it my Xmas destination four years in a row.
Castle Horneck, as the hostel is called, is a friendly and familiar place. I've come to know the staff well and always feel welcome there. And there's something about the town of Penzance that makes me feel at peace. Perhaps my attraction is due to the way the main street winds up a hill with a raised pavement on one side. Or could it be that I can see the bay and St Michael's Mount from any one of many vantage points in the shopping district?
Then there's the walk around the bay to Newlyn, a working fishing town that is as quaint and unspoiled as it possibly can be in today's world. And speaking of quaint, Mousehole (pronounced Muzzel), a half-hour stroll along the sea front and around the head, remains much as it has been for centuries. Thinking about it, though, with narrow streets lined with thick-walled white washed cottages protected by preservation orders, there is little room for change within the village.
Ever since I first visited Penzance I have this urge to keep returning, which I do fairly often. I've spent Christmas there for the past three years and have already bought my rail ticket and booked four nights at the YHA to make it my Xmas destination four years in a row.
Castle Horneck, as the hostel is called, is a friendly and familiar place. I've come to know the staff well and always feel welcome there. And there's something about the town of Penzance that makes me feel at peace. Perhaps my attraction is due to the way the main street winds up a hill with a raised pavement on one side. Or could it be that I can see the bay and St Michael's Mount from any one of many vantage points in the shopping district?
Then there's the walk around the bay to Newlyn, a working fishing town that is as quaint and unspoiled as it possibly can be in today's world. And speaking of quaint, Mousehole (pronounced Muzzel), a half-hour stroll along the sea front and around the head, remains much as it has been for centuries. Thinking about it, though, with narrow streets lined with thick-walled white washed cottages protected by preservation orders, there is little room for change within the village.
The approach to Newlyn harbour.
As well as visiting my friends, I spent a day in St Ives. Even in late September the day was sunny and warm enough for a paddle.
As well as visiting my friends, I spent a day in St Ives. Even in late September the day was sunny and warm enough for a paddle.
From there I travelled north to Tintagel for two nights in the hostel perched on the clifftops. It's a small one-storey building with kitchen, dining room and lounge combined, a setup that makes for intimate evenings and ample opportunity to strike up new friendships. On my one full day there I bussed to Bude and walked along the beach and through still-familiar rock pools before enjoying my usual dish of cheesy chips while watching the tide come in. Bude, too, is a favourite haunt with memories of family holidays. It was there that my grandmother gave me my first swimming lessons; she tied a rope around my waist and walked back and forth along the sea pool wall as I dog-paddled -- my frantic splashing the only way to keep from freezing in the frigid waters of the Atlantic Ocean.
I had never before walked on the site of Tintagel Castle, so before heading home I decided to pay the fee to roam around the ruins. In fact, I purchased an English Heritage membership. And even though the time frame of the crumbling edifice doesn't fit with the legend of King Arthur, I allowed my imagination to run riot. The scenery, as was the weather, was spectacular, and I came upon a butterfly (or maybe a moth) desperately trying to disentangle its legs from a spider's web beneath an overhanging rock. I helped secure the creature's freedom and managed to catch a shot as it rested a while before wafting off on the warm breeze -- perhaps his way of thanking me?







